This has been a more challenging post to write that I expected. Not, I hasten to add, because sampling alcoholic chocolate truffles is unusually taxing, or at least certainly not for someone whose sommelier-level palate is as finely honed as my own. It’s more the conversations that having chocolates hanging around the house prompts.
“Can I have one of those chocolates?”
“Not yet. They’re for a work thing.”
“You won’t need them all. Can I have just one?”
“No, I need to photograph the boxes.”
“I bet I could open a box and close it again without damaging it.”
“I’d rather you wait.”
“Have you photographed those boxes yet?”
“Not yet.”
“You’ve had all day. What have you been doing?”
So anyway, this all started when my son and I were strolling through Covent Garden and encountered some cheerful representatives of the promotions industry handing out samples of Bailey’s Salted Caramel Chocolate Truffles, which are apparently a new addition to the nation’s choice of alcoholic chocolate truffles this festive season.
A cursory check on the internet reveals that, not only are other varieties of Bailey’s Chocolate Truffles available, but there are also a bewildering array of alcohol-laced truffles out there. So, it seemed only right and proper to work through a few and offer a beacon of light to those trying to navigate the choppy waters of selecting Christmas confectionary.
So, to begin:
Bailey’s Original Chocolate Truffles. These come “with a hint of Bailey’s” according to the box. The first Christmas that we had Bailey’s in our house, c.1977, my nan had far more than a hint. She had most of a bottle, was violently ill, and accused my mum of undercooking the turkey. Anyway, the Bailey’s Original truffle has a welcoming milk chocolate aroma and a very satisfying crack when you bite it. The filling captures the flavour of the liqueur, sweet and creamy with a hint of whiskey. This is a grown-up, indulgent chocolate, although that cloying sweetness catches up with you quite quickly.
Lir Marc de Champagne Truffles. This is “Milk Chocolate Marc de Champagne flavoured truffles dusted with freeze dried strawberries”. We’ll come back to Marc de Champagne later on. There’s a definite strawberry aroma from the truffle, and a lick of the fingers confirms that they are, indeed, dusted with a strawberry flavour powder. It takes a bit of effort to crack through the thick chocolate shell, and the squdgy milk chocolate fondant within is a bit disappointing. It’s undoubtedly chocolatey, but the flavour is a little indistinct, and has no obvious alcohol character. Maybe a stronger, dark chocolate filling would complement the strawberry more effectively
Bailey’s Salted Caramel Chocolate Truffles. Back on the Bailey’s, these are “Salted Caramel with a hint of Bailey’s”. One can only hope the chef of urban legend who accidentally put salt in the caramel and created a flavour phenomenon got a pay rise. The chocolate shell on this is darker than the Bailey’s Original truffle, with a hint of rich bitterness in the aroma. Once inside, the salt cuts the sweetness of the filling, complementing the whiskey and delivering a more complex combination of flavours. Definitely a step up from the Original variety.
Marks & Spencer Belgian Chocolatier Marc de Champagne Cocoa Dusted Truffles There it is again, Marc de Champagne, Sounds classy, doesn’t it? In fact, Marc de Champagne is a clear spirit produced by distilling the seeds and skins from champagne grapes. It’s basically unaged brandy made from winemaking leftovers. But let’s not be deterred. it’s undoubtedly far better to mix it with chocolate than drink the stuff neat. There’s a rich chocolate aroma from the shell and a pleasing chocolate dusting on your fingers. When bitten, the truffle crumbles rather than cracks, and the filling has a distinct, rich brandy flavour note which nicely complements the dark chocolate.
Bailey’s Strawberries & Cream Chocolate Truffles. “Strawberries and Cream with a hint of Bailey’s”, says the box. More Bailey’s, more strawberry. The shell’s aroma has a pleasant mix of chocolate and strawberry notes, and as with the other Bailey’s truffles, cracks satisfyingly when bitten. The filling delivers on the promised strawberry and cream flavour, but it’s at the expense of the whiskey note which is an important part of the overall Bailey’s experience. For me, and I say this as someone who usually mops up the strawberry and orange creme Quality Streets that no one else wants, this one is just a bit too sweet.
Guinness Chocolate Truffles. The box promises “Intense darks chocolate with a creamy Guinness flavoured filling”. I’m dubious. A splash of Guinness in a steak pie or beef stew is all very well, but extending a beer brand into confectionary feels like a step too far. What next? Carlsberg Cough Candy, or Peroni Pastilles? Anyway, nothing ventured. The shell is thematically dark, and has the rich, bitter aroma of dark chocolate. Once through the shell, the filling has some of the roasted, malty notes of Guinness, but these don’t so much complement the fondant sweetness as invite it outside for a fight. I think it’s fair to say that if you went into a chocolate truffle shop and had concerns about the overall quality of the truffles on offer, this would be a workable default choice, but no more than that. (That’s an in-joke for cask ale drinkers. You’re welcome.)
Lindt Lindor Tiramisu flavour. These are very much the interloper in this taste test, as unlike the others they’re not even pretending to include alcohol as an ingredient, However, as rum is an essential element of a tiramisu, and Lindor seems to generally be the go-to truffle brand, they get a pass. The outer shell definitely delivers on the chocolate, cream and coffee aroma of the classic Italian dessert, and the same flavours combine nicely in the fondant filling. What’s missing, of course, is the rum. Undeterred, I pour myself a slug of Captain Morgan’s and return to the fray. I can confirm that Lindor Tiramisu flavour is definitely enhanced by matching it with a shot of rum, and that, I think will be my seasonal truffle serve of choice. Always drink responsibly, kids.
Oh, and apparently Lindor also do a Marc de Champagne variety truffle. Just not at my local Londis.
Cheers, and compliments of the season!
